Wednesday, April 5, 2006 | Cincinnati.Com » CiN Weekly » Dining » La Petite France

La Petite France

Experience a taste of France at this Evendale eatery


Of all the things Cincinnati is known for, its cuisine is near the top of the list. But if you only paid attention to our reputation, you might believe chili, ribs, goetta and ice cream made up Cincinnati's entire culinary landscape.

Taste the international flavors offered at restaurants such as Evendale's La Petite France, however, and you'll find that idea is far from the truth.

ELEGANT INTERIORS

Owned and operated by French native Daniele Crandall, La Petite France exudes a relaxed elegance.

Simple and quaint enough for two during slower evening hours, the bistro and bar area is also large and expansive enough to seat up to 80 comfortably without feeling crowded. The restaurant's "Champagne" and "Bordeaux" rooms offer a home-style comfort with fireplaces and rich wood decor.

For an intimate experience, try the restaurant's "Cognac" room, which seats about 16 people. But each area is lively and comfortable, paintings and stained glass artwork, so there's not really a bad seat in the house.

MORE THAN PASTRY

If your knowledge of French food begins and ends with croissants, you'll be in for an educational treat at La Petite France - especially if you opt for a three-course meal ($40) or four-course meal ($44).

Taking the three-course option, I found my "saumon fume" - smoked salmon garnished with field greens, capers and shallots ($11) - to be a tasty salad-style appetizer. I was more impressed with my dinner date's "au fromage de chevre," a crepe baked with goat cheese, spinach and prosciutto in a savory red brandy cream sauce ($9).

Entree-wise, my date was thrilled with her "filet de boeuf aux morilles" ($27) and loved the mushroom demi-glaze surrounding her steak. I, however, was a little disappointed with my "bar au beurre blanc et crabe," seared seabass with crabmeat in a sherry butter sauce ($27). There's nothing wrong with the dish, but it wasn't spectacular, and it's not the best seabass I've ever eaten.

SOMETHING SWEET

Dessert, however, should bring nothing but rave reviews. The chocolate mousse ($6) is the restaurant's signature dessert, and the creme brulee ($6) is highly recommended.


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The Carre d'Agneau (roasted rack of lamb) at La Petite France in Evendale.
DAVID SORCHER | CIN WEEKLY
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The Carre d'Agneau (roasted rack of lamb) at La Petite France in Evendale.

JUST THE FACTS

WHAT: La Petite France

WHEN: Open 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5 to 10 p.m. Monday-Saturday. Sunday hours are by appointment only and must include a minimum party of 15 or have special event coordination.

WHERE: 3177 Glendale-Milford Road, Evendale

PRICE: Lunch entrees $8.50-$14; dinner entrees $14-31; a three-course meal featuring a choice of appetizer, entree and dessert is available for $40 per person, and a four-course meal with soup or salad is available for $44 per person.

PARKING: Free in lot

CONTACT: (513) 733-8383 or www.lapetitefrance.biz

BON APPETIT

Cuisine and wine suggestions as recommended by La Petite France's Becki Crandall:

APPETIZER
Moules (steamed mussels) á la creme ($7) paired with Chateau Bonnet Sauvignon Blanc ($7 a glass)

VEGETARIAN ENTREE
Baked tomato, stuffed with four cheeses, over grilled portabella mushroom with bleu cheese sauce and Belgian endive with marmalade garnish ($16) paired with Guigal Cotes du Rhone ($8)

ENTREE
Pan-seared sea scallops and caramelized Belgian endive ($26) paired with Hugel Gentil-Alsace ($8)

TRADITIONAL FRENCH ENTREE
Carre d'agneau - Roasted rack of lamb with rosemary-garlic demi-glace ($31) paired with Chateau Bealieu Bordeaux ($9)

DESSERT
Tarte tatin - caramelized apple tart over vanilla sauce ($6) or mousse au chocolat ($6) paired with Domaine de Coyeux Muscat Beaumes de Venise ($7)

Stephanie Batty and Cameron Caldwell enjoy wine with their meal at La Petite France in Evendale.
DAVID SORCHER | CIN WEEKLY
Buy This Photo
Stephanie Batty and Cameron Caldwell enjoy wine with their meal at La Petite France in Evendale.

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