Chart House
Riverfront restaurant in Newport offers premium seafood, atmosphere
TABARI MCCOY | CIN WEEKLY
Once upon a time, Chart House was one of Northern Kentucky's most well-known riverfront restaurants. And then, at the end of 2003, it closed and was seemingly forgotten.
Now it has returned, and you need only sample the comfort and delicious cuisine to never forget again.
HOTEL SWEET
Open since November, the Chart House features a plush, upscale hotel-inspired interior that might make you expect a bellhop rather than a waiter. Illuminated with just the right amount of light to be intimate yet accommodating, the decor is a perfect complement to the dark, rich wood spread throughout the restaurant.
Patio dining is available in warmer weather, but if you want the most out of your cold-weather experience indoors, request table 62 (or a table nearby). Located in a corner of the restaurant, the area offers a terrific panoramic view of the Cincinnati skyline as well as the sizable salad bar/kitchen area you can watch a meal being prepared. The table is far enough away to avoid any lingering smoke from the cozy bar/lounge area while remaining close enough to allow for a good view of the flat-screen TV. All of the perks add to the restaurant's appeal, making the Chart House feel more like its own unique entity than part of a national chain.
SUCCULENT SEAFARE
Meeting my dinner date in the bar area, I was a bit worried when she told me the dirty martini she was sipping ($7.50) was "the worst" she ever had. Those fears were quickly alleviated when we sat down to eat, as we found inviting appetizer options such as seared peppered ahi tuna and lobster spring rolls. The calamari - which comes with a choice of sweet peppers or a Thai chili citrus sauce - was a wise choice; the dish is as delicious as it is massive. (If you're planning on eating it solo, you probably won't need to order anything else to eat.)
Choosing an entree, however, was a bit more difficult. The Chart House offers a huge selection in categories ranging from fresh fish specialties and crab and lobster to prime rib, steaks and chicken. All entrees can be topped with signature creations such as jumbo lump crab and avocado pico ($6.99). Throw in your choice of any eight side dishes and the menu can become almost overwhelming.
I avoided that problem by ordering the Chart House Mixed Grill of a jumbo lump crab cake, grilled shrimp, salmon and vegetables with garlic mashed potatoes in place of the standard rice pilaf ($24.99). Surprisingly, I ended up being more impressed by my date's Dynamite Boston Cod ($22.99) as the crab-crusted fish was one of the most delicious dishes I've ever sampled.
I would continue raving about the huge Key lime pie ($5.99), which took me 2 1/2 days to finish, but there's no need. As soon as you take a bite, you'll understand why it helps make the Chart House so good.
