Lunch at Pigall's
Jean-Robert lures the midday crowd
GINA DAUGHERTY | CIN WEEKLY
There will likely never be an occasion when anyone I am about to have dinner with will suggest Jean-Robert at Pigall's.
It's not because I wouldn't want to eat at Jean-Robert de Cavel's four-star restaurant featuring French cuisine, elegant surroundings and above-and-beyond service. It's just that the occasions are rare when dropping $69 per person for dinner is a real option.
If you want to try Pigall's but are reluctant to make the commitment to dinner, then consider lunch. It's the same quality food craftsmanship, stellar service and refined atmosphere - but without the price tag of evening dining.
NERVOUS? DON'T BE
I'd never been to Pigall's before, and admittedly, I was a little nervous. Would I use the right fork? Would I tip when appropriate? Would I even like the food? Would I commit some heinous faux pas and embarrass myself, my family and future generations?
I decided to tackle my inexperience like any intrepid reporter would - I just asked, which was fortunate for the waiter. Gratuity is no longer included in the price as it used to be for dinner.
Prices are on the menu, but only after the second-course options. So if you order the breast of chicken ($28), as I did, your choice of appetizer is included.
WINE AND A SURPRISE
Just because it's lunch doesn't mean you shouldn't imbibe when dining at Pigall's. I had a glass of the Franz Kunstler Riesling Kabinett ($11), and it was perfectly suited for my insatiably sweet wine palate. My friend Jen had a glass of the Louis Latour Pouilly-Fuisse ($13.50).
To start, I got the warm goat cheese with dried and roasted fruit, dandelion salad and arugula. Turns out, dandelion and arugula are bitter, which nicely offset the sweet fruits and goat cheese. Jen tried the rock shrimp with corn and chanterelle ravioli served with basil sauce.
After the first course but before our entree, an amuse-bouche (translation: mouth amusement) unexpectedly arrived at our table. The small plate of four bite-sized hors d'oeuvres was perfectly constructed and was such a nice surprise. And since we didn't know what it was, we asked. Compliments of the chef for every table.
My entree, the breast of chicken, was served with tarragon sauce and a medley of carrots, snow peas and chanterelles. It was far more than I could eat, but the chicken was so succulent that I continued eating long after I should have stopped.
Jen had the sea scallops with orange and ginger cream sauce with a medley of root vegetables and purple potatoes ($34). I'd never seen purple potatoes before, but Jen said they were delicious and the sea scallops were "divine."
AFTER-LUNCH LEISURE
To finish off our leisurely, two-hour lunch, we both had cappuccinos ($4.50 each) and shared the light-as-air apple-hazelnut frangipane with hard cider ice cream (all desserts and cheese are $8).
For our afternoon of wine, three courses and cappuccino, the bill came in at $110. And I'd say it was well worth it.
