Little Italy
Maggiano’s brings atmosphere, appetizing tastes to Kenwood
TABARI MCCOY | CIN WEEKLY
It's a valid question: Can a restaurant really pull off the idea of being upscale in a crowded suburban shopping center?
We checked out the new Maggiano's Little Italy at Kenwood Towne Centre to see for ourselves.
WELCOME THE FAMILY
A sense of smart sophistication embraces diners as soon as they walk inside Maggiano's. An intimate, lounge-like bar area precedes the hostess stand and banquet hall in the center of Maggiano's intersecting hallways.
The 300-seat main dining area allows for intimate conservation among the casually dressed crowd, and the small outside dining grotto enhances the feeling of class without bordering on upscale banality.
The staff was equally impressive - courteous, quick and knowledgeable of both the cuisine and the wine list.
BUON APPETITO
You don't have to like pasta to enjoy Maggiano's - the restaurant has several chicken, veal, seafood and salad options to choose from - but ifare a pasta fan, Maggiano's is a little slice of heaven.
Seated within 15 minutes after confirming our 7 p.m. reservation, my dining companion and I decided to begin our Maggiano's experience with an order of calamari fritte ($7.95 for a half order, $11.95 full) before settling on dinner choices.
The tender squid selection, which arrived within 10 minutes of placing our order, was enjoyable, not excessively greasy and maintained its warmth long after it was brought to the table.
Dinner proved to be equally pleasing, as my order of the restaurant's special-recipe seven-layer lasagna in meat sauce ($13.95) was, in order, delicious, spicy and filling.
Stopping midway through to save half of my lasagna for later, I found my dining partner had no problems with her mushroom ravioli al forno ($7.95 for an appetizer portion, $13.95 for entree size) - save for her admission: "I'm going to gain 10 pounds! That sauce is so thick!"
We both decided to skip dessert to make sure we could get up from the table, although the sight of Maggiano's chocolate zuccotto cake ($5.50) was enough to make me think twice about leaving.
SIMPLE PLEASURES
In and out (and stuffed) in under 90 minutes even on a crowded Thursday evening, we found Maggiano's to be a tasty, nice and time-efficient dining experience. (And judging by the smiles on their faces and carryout bags in their hands, other diners agreed.)
Elegant without being snooty and filling without prices that will empty your wallet, Maggiano's delivers quality service, an intimate setting and a distinct cuisine, which, in an area crowded with Italian restaurants, is a good thing to have.
If you want to get a little taste of Italy, you now only have to drive to the mall.
