Wednesday, October 13, 2004 | Cincinnati.Com » CiN Weekly » Dining » Red Star Tavern

Red Star Tavern

Contemporary tavern atmosphere, sweet martinis score with locals at new Deerfield Township restaurant


Grab a booth, order a dirty martini and check out all the scoring goin' on at swanky new Red Star Tavern.

There are NFL teams scoring against their rivals on TVs suspended above the wooden, rectangular bar, and 20- and 30-somethings scoring business dinners or one another's phone numbers over cocktails.

And while it sounds like a pick-up spot, this red hot tavern is simply a cool, contemporary place for enjoying sports, steaks, intimate conversation and the house specialty: martinis.

SWANKY SPORTS TAVERN

Red Star, a Chicago-based franchise owned by RDG (owners of Newport on the Levee's Bar Louie), scores points for its atmosphere. Fusing cosmopolitan decor with sports bar touches (eight TVs with all sports, all the time), the 6,000 square-foot restaurant has an upbeat feel.

From the booths and tables to the white plates and entree portions, thing is oversized - well, almost everything. The patio, which features 12 tables and three red lounge couches (as well as a tiled bar and a fire pit), is so nice I left wishing it was a larger part of the restaurant.

MARTINIS

The drink special? Any one of Red Star's 27 martinis. We ordered the Swank with Ketel One Vodka and Bombay Sapphire Gin ($8). We also tried the fruity Pineappletini with Ketel One Citron and DeKuyper pineapple liqueur ($8). Our server brought two glasses and two silver shakers to our table.

Excited to have a freshly shaken martini, I was a little surprised when our server poured the wrong martini into each glass, only to switch the garnish instead of starting over. It was an awkward, but forgivable, moment. I would have preferred to shake and pour myself.

SIMPLE STARTERS

We skipped traditional appetizers - spinach dip, an onion tower, quesadillas - opting for a Tavern salad ($3.95) and a side of parmesan au gratins ($2.95). Both were savory. I thought the house balsamic dressing served on the bed of field greens was excellent.

MAIN DISHES

The menu includes steaks, chops, seafood, pastas and sandwiches. I tried the rotisserie chicken breast sandwich with pesto, tomatoes, spinach and mozzarella ($7.95). I also substituted the chips for fries for an additional 95 cents. Served with a side of fresh coleslaw, it was a filling, more traditional "tavern" selection.

VEGETARIAN

The grilled portobello sandwich ($7.95) was tempting, but my martini buddy and I ordered the wild mushroom penne pasta with oven dried tomatoes ($11.95). And, for a tavern menu based primarily on meat dishes, this vegetarian pasta was well-executed with a good veggies-to-pasta ratio.

DESSERT

We were torn between flourless chocolate cake ($5.95) and caramel apple bread pudding ($5.95). After hearing from our server that a flourless cake is denser than a normal one, we ordered the latter. The apple bread pudding, topped with whipped cream, was warm and cinnamony - a perfect fall dessert that made for a sweet pairing with the martinis.


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Denise Dudley (left) of Mason laughs with friends Cheryl Chaney of Mason and Tami Woodring (not shown) of Sarasota, Fla., over martinis at Red Star Tavern.
LEIGH PATTON/CIN WEEKLY
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Denise Dudley (left) of Mason laughs with friends Cheryl Chaney of Mason and Tami Woodring (not shown) of Sarasota, Fla., over martinis at Red Star Tavern.

JUST THE FACTS

WHAT: Red Star Tavern

WHEN: Open 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sunday-Thursday and 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. Friday-Saturday

WHERE: 5045 Deerfield Blvd., Deerfield Twp.

PRICE: Dinner sandwiches $7.95-$10.95, entrees $9.95-$24.95

PARKING: So abundant, I'd give it a gold star

CONTACT: (513) 398-0070 or www.redstartavern.net

HAPPY HOUR: 4 to 7 p.m. Monday-Friday with $5 martinis and select $2 drafts

SUGGESTIONS

STARTER: Onion stack with chipotle mayo ($5.95)

SIDE: Parmesan au gratins ($2.95)

STEAK: Blue cheese crusted sirloin with mashers ($17.95)

MEAT: Rotisserie chicken breast sandwich with spinach and mozzarella ($7.95)

VEGETARIAN: Wild mushroom penne pasta with oven dried tomatoes ($11.95)

KIDS: Little burger and fries ($3.95)

DESSERT: Caramel apple bread pudding ($5.95)

MARTINI: Swank, with Ketel One Vodka and Bombay Sapphire Gin ($8)

Dinner by the fire pit: Start with Red Star Tavern’s cosmopolitan martini and move on to the rotisserie chicken breast sandwich with spinach and mozzarella, served with chips and cole slaw.
LEIGH PATTON/CIN WEEKLY
Dinner by the fire pit: Start with Red Star Tavern’s cosmopolitan martini and move on to the rotisserie chicken breast sandwich with spinach and mozzarella, served with chips and cole slaw.

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