Su Casa
Springdale restaurant has plenty of excellent Mexican home cooking to enjoy
TABARI MCCOY | CIN WEEKLY
Springdale's Su Casa Mexican Restaurant takes everything you know about the way "traditional" Mexican cuisine in America is supposed to taste, and throws it out the window. If you're ready for a culinary adventure, you may find a delicious second home at Su Casa.
A FAMILY AFFAIR
Located in the Princeton Plaza strip mall next to LaRosa's, Su Casa is operated by Jaime Merlo and his wife, Esther. The Merlos took over Su Casa after relocating to Cincinnati from Chicago, where Jaime served as a chef for several years at the Metropolitan Club in the Sears Tower.
The interior of Su Casa's large, chapel-like dining hall features many images representative of Jaime's native Guadalajara, Mexico. The accommodating staff members are as likely to stop by your table to casually chat as they are to refill drinks.
DISH, DISH
Merlo says he wants to promote healthy eating while changing the perception many people have about Mexican restaurants. Vegetarians, those on diets and people with advous tastes have little reason to worry at Su Casa; Merlo substitutes wines and herbs for salt, fries food as little as possible and uses unique ingredients - including guava, cactus and oysters - in his dishes.
While traditional dishes such as burritos can be had at the restaurant, Su Casa's staff encourages customers to try something less greasy. We decided to try two of Merlo's favorite dishes for our meal, the first being the impressive "Don Pedro Domec" ($13.95), a delicious 8-oz black peppercorn steak in Don Pedro brandy sauce. The Pollo Estilo Vallarata ($10.25) was delicious, with sautéed chicken, artichokes, hearts of palm, tomatoes and mushrooms.
We shared two desserts, the mouth-watering sweet Su Casa strawberries smothered in the restaurant's house sauce ($3.95) and bread pudding covered in vanilla sauce ($3.25).
If you have a hankering for something else, Merlo says with advance notice he will prepare a meal built to your specifications (seriously).
FOOD FIESTA
Those who like margaritas will find the only drawback at Su Casa is that it doesn't serve spirits. But the restaurant plans to have its liquor license by October's end.
With every eatery this side of McDonald's selling fajitas and quesadillas, it's easy to overlook the restaurant in favor of familiar fast food or chain substitutes. But there's never any substitute for a good home-cooked meal.
Especially when you can get one at Su Casa.
