China Gourmet
Asian Cuisine
JULIE FITZGERALD | CIN WEEKLY
3340 Erie Ave., Hyde Park
513-871-6612
www.chinagourmet.com
China Gourmet is a place of endless (good) surprises. And the first is its location.
Wedged underneath the Matt Bradley Hair Salon in a brick split-level, the place is barely visible to passersby on Erie Avenue. But waiting behind the entry at the bottom of a steep flight of stairs waits an unexpectedly great dining experience.
Servers dressed in formal attire move about sectioned-off rooms delivering $5 plates of Szechuan beans in silver dishes. And it's exactly this balance of casual Chinese food with semi-formal service that lets you know this is no mere fried-rice joint.
However, that's all about to change — slightly. The Zagat-rated restaurant will close in early January 2007 for a few weeks to undergo a complete renovation. Manager Matt Loomis says China Gourmet will modernize to become more of a lounge-restaurant and late-night hotspot.
"We're trying to attract a more diverse crowd,"is says. In addition to a new 22-person circular bar, China Gourmet will add a fireplace with crystal logs.
And the menu?
Thankfully, that will remain the same as it's been for the last 30 years. Virtually unchanged since 1977, it focuses strictly on Chinese. The beauty of the restaurant's cuisine can be summed up in its simplicity. The menu is pared down to just the essentials: Rice and noodle dishes paired with amazing sauces.
Steak lovers shouldn't miss the Steak Kew ($16.95) with large chunks of medium seared tenderloin stir fried with brown sauce and Chinese vegetables. Listed under the category "China Gourmet Classics," this is one of the restaurant's top dishes. Another popular pick is the New Chicken ($13.95) - thick pieces of battered white-meat chicken with spicy garlic sauce.
Other sauce-based entrees range from spicy Szechuan pork ($13.95) to Kung Po chicken ($13.95) to Hung Sui bean curd ($11.95). Don't know one sauce from another? The kitchen will send out a sample. (Consider it Chinese 101.)
China Gourmet prides itself on service, offering to whip up custom specialties based on your tastes. You can add or subtract any given vegetable from a dish. And half-orders are available if you're dining on a small stomach - or a tight budget.
But don't just dig into the main course. Egg rolls ($2.25 each) with shredded veggies, pork and shrimp are a must-try appetizer. (They haven't been fancied-up to seem more chic; they're still the thick, crunchy kind that come with a side of sweet duck sauce.)
Now dig in — and don't forget a side of Szechuan string beans.
HOURS: Open 11:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 11:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Friday and 4:30-10:30 p.m. Sunday
MENU SAMPLER
APPETIZER: Classic egg roll with ground pork and shredded veggies ($2.25)
ENTREE: Steak Kew with large chunks of beef and veggies in a rich, savory brown sauce. Served with rice. ($17.95)
HOUSE SPECIALTY: Szechuan string beans, an award-winning dish prepared with chilis and minced garlic ($8.95 or $4.95 for half-order)
VEGETARIAN: Szechuan bean curd with tofu and veggies ($9.95)
