Pho Paris
New partnership produces a fusion of good tastes in a comfortable place
JULIE FITZGERALD | CIN WEEKLY CONTRIBITOR
The only thing you need to know about Pho Paris is there's nothing faux about it.
This new dining concept - a creation of our city's famed, French restaurateur Jean-Robert de Cavel and partnering Le family (owners of Song Long in Roselawn) - is a fantastic fusion that's part French, part Vietnamese and part Cincinnatian.
Together, this multicultural mix offers diners a real taste of international cuisine in comfortable surroundigs.
AN AMERICAN IN ASIAN-PARIS
Ideal for dates and special occasions, Pho Paris has a modern décor that is oh-so fitting for its Oakley location. In a neighborhood that already hosts several trendy-chic establishments - Voltage Furniture, Knit Happens, Baby a, Crossroads Community Church - this upscale eatery looks and feels right at home.
Though the ambiance seems heavily peppered with de Cavel's tastes (right down to framed, vintage Air France posters), the restaurant carefully fuses French and Asian accents.
Tables are minimally adorned. White, square lighting fixtures hang down to light the tables. Black and white photos line one of the dining room walls. A small Buddha statue sits underneath a lamp shaped like the Eiffel Tower, greeting guests at the hostess stand.
It's feng shui, but French-Vietnamese style.
CRISP STARTERS
Dishes list both their French and Vietnamese names.
We chose the Rouleau de Printemps/Goi Cuon (Vietnamese cold rolls). Filled with crisp veggies and long strands of noodles, these cooling, delicate appetizers are a great first course for the $6 price. Another light, satisfying starter was the smoked salmon over a pear/jicama/seaweed salad ($10).
Followed by the most outstanding (complimentary) hot French bread I've ever had, these appetizers were a nice warm-up for the main course.
SAVORY ENTREES
If you like seafood, the Fletan-Ca (halibut) is a must-try. This white fish dish ($19) is served in a creamy beurre blanc with accents of grapefruit and ginger. The savory flavors hit all areas of the mouth and make you want to applaud de Cavel and Le for their culinary artistry.
My co-diner's tofu stir fry (the only vegetarian offering) was a little less exciting for $19.50. The tofu was crisp and so were the veggies, but it lacked a flavorful sauce.
DESSERTS FOR TWO
Rich in texture and large enough for two to share, my fusion favorites are the green tea creme brulee ($8) and the mango chiboust ($8).
If you like fruit-infused desserts, the pretty chiboust with black currant sorbet won't disappoint. And the brulee? Well, although the green-colored cream may initially be a little shocking, this sugar-crusted dessert is a French-Asian delight.
